Shiplap is available in raw Western Red Cedar and Hemlock.
For orders above 40m2 (or 500 lineal metres) speak to us about our range of oil and varnish stained finishes that we can apply in the mill. However, your own custom finish can also easily be applied. All natural wood tones can vary greatly even within species so the end result can vary greatly.
|82mm wide (cover) x 18mm thick|
|Western Red Cedar|
|Shiplap is made from premium grade 18mm thick Western Red Cedar. Panels can be run horizontally or vertically on walls or ceilings.|
|Raw, Pre-oiled*, Satin Clear Coat*|
Panels per m2
|12.2 lineal metres per m2 coverage|
Weight per m2
|Approximately 6.1kg per m2|
|Secret pinning or combination of secret pinning and flexible builders adhesive (ie equivalent of Bostik Ultraset SF).|
|Internal or external applications. Walls or ceilings. Prefinished lacquer finishes are for ‘out of weather’ applications only.|
This guide outlines basic measures that must be taken to ensure a successful installation of Shiplap, Castelation Screenclad, Rib Clad, Diamond Clad, Channel to internal walls, ceilings and out-of-weather applications including alfresco ceilings
1. Prepare the wall or ceiling
- If you are attaching the internal timbers directly to the studs or ceiling battens, make sure the studs are straight and clean. Studs must be no greater than 600mm apart for
- If the wall panellings are to run vertically, make sure you have sufficient sturdy noggins, or the wall has horizontal battens.
- To apply timber panelling directly over plaster, find the studs and ensure the nails can fix into the studs readily. Or, fix battens over the plaster and fix the panelling to the battens.
- For concrete blocks, concrete tilt slab, or bricks, batten over the wall first. Use flush mechanical fixings, and follow the manufacturer’s directions.
- For metal studs, fix battens over the studs, as you cannot readily fix each board to the metal unless a glueing technique can be established.
2. Consider colours and lengths of the panelling
- Western Red Cedar comes in a beautiful array of amber colours that gives a warm ambient affect. As you install the panelling, ensure you take advantage of the colour variations in the timber boards, to achieve a satisfying visual effect.
- Prior to installing, consider the lengths that have been supplied. Plan ahead to best use these lengths to achieve even patterns and minimal wastage.
- Make sure you know which side is the face so you don’t install it back to front (it has happened).
3. Consider prefinished timber or DIY coating
Your options are:
- Prefinished timber from Stack Panel Australia: We provide a commercial UV-cured clear or tinted finish, which is tough and scratch resistant. It’s suitable for internal walls or ceilings, or external ceilings (verandahs, alfrescos, out-of-weather applications), and matching trims are available.
- DIY / onsite coating: Choose a stain, paint or clear lacquer for your timber project. Ask your paint supplier for advice.We recommend coating the back of your timber panelling before putting it up to seal the product. This gives added dimensional stability and reduces risk of water ingress from leaking roofs.The face of the panelling can be painted before or after installation.
4. Glue and nail up the boards
All our internal timber panel profiles are designed for secret nailing. This leaves no nails exposed and no holes to putty (starter boards and trims excepted).
Your options are:
- Cut the boards very neatly so there is no need to have trim pieces to cover the edges where the panelling starts and finishes. This is considerably more difficult, but gives a very clean and impressive finish.
- Put the boards up, and then run a small timber bead around the full perimeter of the panelling to cover any cuts, chips and pin nails. You can choose from a multitude of different trims and coat them to match or contrast.
- Start on one side of the room, and make sure the first board is straight and square. Squeeze adhesive along the battens or studs. Place the groove side against the wall. This edge of the board may need to be shaped slightly if the wall is not straight or square. On the first board, put nails into the face of the groove side, as well as the tongue side. Each board that follows will need nails in the tongue only. Put the tongue nails in accurately so the next board covers the nail head.
- Place the second board so the groove fits firmly over the first tongue. Use glue and nails as previous.
- Continue across the ceiling or wall.
- If joins are needed, butt together carefully on a stud or batten, and glue well. At joins, take extra care to ensure the nails do not split the tongue.
- When finishing on the far side, you will again need to put nails into the face of the boards. Done carefully, the only nail heads that will be visible are at the start of the wall and the finish. Cover these with a trim.
- Always use a construction adhesive as well as the nails. This adds to the rigidity of the project.
Note: The first and last boards can be glued in place. This will mean there are no nail holes in the first and last boards, giving a very professional finish. You will need to support those boards securely until the adhesive takes over.
5. Commercial ceiling installations
Timber ceilings can be readily installed where there is a metal track system.
- Castelation Screenclad (with channels), can be screwed through the channel to the metal track. One screw per board, per track is sufficient (See Figure 2). This works particularly well with the Runway Black/Clear or White/Clear product as the screw heads can be painted the same colour as the channels.
- For Shiplap, Rib Clad, Diamond Clad, Channel that cannot use face fixing screws, it is necessary to securely screw a timber batten to the bottom of a metal track, then proceed as per timber framing projects (See Figure 3).